PASTA PRIMAVERA
I see you rolling your eyes at the thought of spaghetti primavera. The dish, rarely seen now, became an absurdity of 1980s so-called seasonal cooking. Meant to be an expression of spring, the mad jumble of vegetables over pasta was mostly an expression of the death match between French and Italian cuisine (cream versus olive oil, sauce versus pasta). But in the late 1970s, when New York's Le Cirque popularized spaghetti primavera, Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey called it "by far, the most talked-about dish in Manhattan." I encourage you to make Le Cirque's version, all 10 pain-in-the-neck steps of it, because despite its tempestuous origins, it's wonderful.
Provided by Amanda Hesser
Categories dinner, project, main course
Time 1h
Yield 4 servings
Number Of Ingredients 22
Steps:
- Trim broccoli and break into florets. Trim off ends of the zucchini. Cut into quarters, then cut into 1-inch or slightly longer lengths (about 1 1/2 cups). Cut each asparagus into 2-inch pieces. Trim beans and cut into 1-inch pieces.
- Cook each of the green vegetables separately in boiling salted water to cover until crisp but tender. Drain well, then run under cold water to chill, and drain again thoroughly. Combine the cooked vegetables in a bowl.
- Cook the peas and pods; about 1 minute if fresh; 30 seconds if frozen. Drain, chill with cold water and drain again. Combine with the vegetables.
- In a skillet over medium-high heat, heat the peanut oil and add the mushrooms. Season to taste. Cook about 2 minutes, shaking the skillet and stirring. Add the mushrooms, chili and parsley to the vegetables.
- Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan and add half the garlic, tomatoes, salt and pepper. Cook about 4 minutes. Add the basil.
- Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet and add the remaining garlic and the vegetable mixture. Cook, stirring gently, until heated through.
- Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until almost (but not quite) tender, retaining a slight resilience in the center. Drain well.
- In a pot large enough to hold the spaghetti and vegetables, add the butter and melt over medium-low heat. Then add the chicken broth and half a cup each of cream and cheese, stirring constantly. Cook gently until smooth. Add the spaghetti and toss quickly to blend. Add half the vegetables and pour in the liquid from the tomatoes, tossing over very low heat.
- Add the remaining vegetables. If the sauce seems dry, add 3 to 4 tablespoons more cream. Add the pine nuts and give the mixture a final tossing.
- Serve equal portions of the spaghetti mixture in hot soup or spaghetti bowls. Spoon equal amounts of the tomatoes over each serving. Serve immediately.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 1099, UnsaturatedFat 35 grams, Carbohydrate 113 grams, Fat 61 grams, Fiber 13 grams, Protein 32 grams, SaturatedFat 21 grams, Sodium 1523 milligrams, Sugar 15 grams, TransFat 0 grams
CRAIG CLAIBORNE'S SMOTHERED CHICKEN
Craig Claiborne was a child of Mississippi who started as food editor of The Times in 1957 and did as much as anyone to help bring home cooking into the spotlight. The dish "belongs in the 'comfort' category," he wrote in 1983, "a food that gives solace to the spirit when you dine on it." You could give your smothered chicken some European flair with mushrooms and small onions in the gravy, as Claiborne did in his experiments with Pierre Franey, then his kitchen co-pilot. Or you could send yourself south to the Creole tastes of the Delta, with a blend of tomatoes, chopped celery, onion and green peppers added to the sauce. But sometimes the easiest way is the best. Try it.
Provided by Sam Sifton
Categories dinner, easy, weekday, times classics, main course
Time 1h20m
Yield 4 servings
Number Of Ingredients 6
Steps:
- Craig Claiborne believed a cast-iron skillet to be essential for the authentic preparation of this dish. Sprinkle the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Select a skillet large enough to hold the chicken comfortably when it is opened up, as for broiling. Fold wings under to secure them.
- Melt the butter in the pan and add the chicken, skin side down. Cover chicken with a plate that will fit comfortably inside the skillet. Place a heavy can, stone or brick on top of the plate to weigh it down. Cook over low heat, checking the chicken skin, until it is nicely browned, about 25 minutes.
- Remove weight and plate. Turn chicken so skin side is up. Replace plate and weight and continue cooking for about 15 minutes more.
- Remove chicken and pour off fat from the skillet, leaving about 2 tablespoons in the pan. Add the flour to the fat, stirring with a wire whisk over medium heat. Gradually add the chicken broth and, when thickened, return chicken to the skillet, skin side up. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover with the plate and weight and continue cooking over low heat about 20 to 30 minutes longer or until the meat is exceptionally tender. Spoon the sauce over it.
- Cut chicken into serving pieces, and serve with the sauce and fluffy rice on the side.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 682, UnsaturatedFat 28 grams, Carbohydrate 7 grams, Fat 48 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 53 grams, SaturatedFat 16 grams, Sodium 1161 milligrams, Sugar 1 gram, TransFat 0 grams
MY MOTHER'S CHICKEN SPAGHETTI
In 1975, Craig Claiborne, then editor of The Times' food department, shared his favorite childhood dish with readers. "A few weeks ago we were interviewed on the McCanns' At Home Program on station WOR, and when the subject veered around to childhood foods, we described in some detail the dish that had given us most pleasure in early youth and adolescence and still gives us comfort as we approach senility. It was a family creation known as chicken spaghetti. It consisted of spaghetti or spaghettini and sometimes vermicelli baked in a casserole, layered with a tomato and cream sauce, a meat sauce, boneless chicken and two kinds of grated cheese. It was almost always served when large numbers were invited for special occasions. Subsequent to the program we received numerous requests for the recipe and discovered with some astonishment that we had somehow never had occasion to use it in a story."
Provided by Craig Claiborne
Categories pastas, poultry, main course
Time 3h
Yield 10 to 12 servings
Number Of Ingredients 21
Steps:
- Place the chicken with neck, gizzard, heart and liver in a kettle and add chicken broth to cover and salt to taste. Bring to the boil and simmer until the chicken is tender without being dry, 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool.
- Remove the chicken and take the meat from the bones. Shred the meat, cover and set aside. Return the skin and bones to the kettle and cook the stock down 30 minutes or longer. There should be four to six cups of broth. Strain and reserve the broth. Discard the skin and bones.
- Meanwhile, put the tomatoes in a saucepan and cook down to half the original volume, stirring. There should be one and one‐half cups.
- Melt three tablespoons of butter in a saucepan and add the flour, stirring to blend with a wire whisk. When blended and smooth, add one cup of the reserved hot broth and the cream, stirring rapidly with the whisk. When thickened and smooth, add the nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
- If the mushrooms are very small or button mushrooms, leave them whole. Otherwise, cut them in half or quarter them. Heat one tablespoon of butter in a small skillet and add the mushrooms. Cook, shaking the skillet occasionally and stirring the mushrooms until they are golden brown. Set aside.
- Heat three tablespoons of butter in a deep skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until wilted. Add the celery and green pepper and cook, stirring, about five minutes. Do not overcook. The vegetables should remain crisp‐tender.
- Add the garlic, beef and pork and cook, stirring and chopping down with the edge of a large metal spoon to break up the meat. Cook just until the meat loses its red color. Add the bay leaf and red pepper flakes. Add the tomatoes and the white sauce made with the chicken broth. Add the mushrooms.
- Cook the spaghetti or spaghettini in boiling salted water until it is just tender. Do not overcook. Remember that it will cook again when blended with the chicken and meat sauce. Drain the spaghetti and run under cold running water.
- Spoon enough of the meat sauce over the bottom of a five‐ or six‐quart casserole to cover it lightly. Add about one‐third of the spaghetti. Add about one‐third of the shredded chicken, a layer of meat sauce, a layer of grated Cheddar cheese and another layer of spaghetti. Continue making layers, ending with a layer of spaghetti topped with a thin layer of meat sauce and grated Cheddar cheese.
- Pour in up to two cups of the reserved chicken broth or enough to almost but not quite cover the top layer of spaghetti. Cover and let the spaghetti stand for four hours or longer. If the liquid is absorbed as the dish stands, add a little more chicken broth. Remember that when this dish is baked and served, the sauce will be just a bit soupy rather than thick and clinging.
- When ready to bake, heat the oven to 350 degrees. (One of the stipulations in the original recipe for this dish is that the spaghetti including all the ingredients be combined at least four hours before baking, but it's not necessary.)
- Place the spaghetti casserole on top of the stove and bring it just to the boil. Cover and place it in the oven. Bake 15 minutes and uncover. Bake 15 minutes longer or until the casserole is hot and bubbling throughout and starting to brown on top. Serve immediately with grated Parmesan cheese on the side.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 668, UnsaturatedFat 17 grams, Carbohydrate 40 grams, Fat 39 grams, Fiber 3 grams, Protein 38 grams, SaturatedFat 19 grams, Sodium 863 milligrams, Sugar 6 grams, TransFat 1 gram
BOLOGNESE SAUCE (AN ITALIAN TOMATO AND MEAT SAUCE)
Provided by Craig Claiborne
Categories dinner, weekday, casseroles, condiments
Time 1h50m
Yield about 4 cups
Number Of Ingredients 19
Steps:
- Heat butter and oil in heavy saucepan or casserole and add sausage, onion, celery and carrot. Cook, stirring, until onion wilts.
- Add beef, pork and chicken livers and cook, stirring with side of heavy metal spoon to break up lumps, until meats lose raw look. Add rosemary, nutmeg, salt, pepper, wine and tomato paste. Stir to blend.
- Puree tomatoes in food processor or blender or crush them by hand. Add tomatoes and broth. Bring to boil and let simmer, skimming surface of fat, 1 1/2 hours.
- Stir in basil and cream and remove from heat
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 258, UnsaturatedFat 9 grams, Carbohydrate 7 grams, Fat 16 grams, Fiber 1 gram, Protein 16 grams, SaturatedFat 7 grams, Sodium 539 milligrams, Sugar 4 grams, TransFat 0 grams
BOLOGNESE SAUCE (AN ITALIAN TOMATO AND MEAT SAUCE)
Steps:
- Heat the butter and oil in a heavy saucepan or casserole and add the sausage, onion, celery and carrot. Cook, stirring, until onion is wilted.
- Add the beef, pork and chicken livers and cook, stirring down with the side of a heavy metal spoon to break up lumps, until meats lose their raw look. Add the rosemary, nutmeg, salt, pepper, wine and tomato paste. Stir to blend.
- Puree the tomatoes in a food processor or blender or crush them by hand. Add the tomatoes and the broth. Bring to a boil and let simmer, skimming the surface of fat, 1 1/2 hours.
- Stir in the basil and cream and remove from the heat.
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- Place first 3 ingredients and water to cover in a large Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer 1 hour or until tender. Remove chicken, reserving broth in Dutch oven. Cool chicken completely (about 20 minutes). Discard bay leaf. Skin and bone chicken, and cut meat into pieces.
- Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove and reserve ¼ cup chicken broth. Bring remaining broth in Dutch oven to a boil over high heat. Break spaghetti into thirds, and cook in broth 12 to 15 minutes or until tender; drain well, discarding broth. Return spaghetti to Dutch oven.
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CRAIG CLAIBORNE'S MOTHER'S CHICKEN SPAGHETTI RECIPE
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- Shred meat, cover, and set aside. Return skin and bones to kettle and cook broth down 30 minutes or longer.
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