Sticky Rice And Mung Bean Cakes Banh Tet Recipes

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TET STICKY RICE CAKES

Bánh Chung are sold at Viet markets and delis, but making them yourself guarantees high quality and is a great way to take part in an ancient Vietnamese tradition. An intersection of cooking, art, and engineering, the cakes come together in an ingenious way, and it is remarkable how so few ingredients create such meaningful and tasty food. See Feasts for the New Year, page 259, for more information on the tradition surrounding the cakes. While some people wrap the cakes free-form, I prefer using a simple homemade wooden mold (see Note for details) to produce beautiful cakes with straight edges, believing that since the ingredients are modest, the presentation matters. The process is surprisingly easy: the mold is lined with bamboo leaves and then banana leaves, the edible ingredients are added, the package is closed up, and the mold is removed, so the cake looks a little box. The cake is then securely wrapped in foil and boiled for several hours. The instructions for these cakes come from my mother and her friend Mr. Lung, who decades ago wrote an extensive article on the subject. When we left Vietnam, Mom carried the piece with her so she could replicate bánh chng here. The ingredients are available at Chinese and Vietnamese markets. Dried bamboo leaves are bundled up in plastic and are usually near the dried mushrooms. Be sure to select a fatty piece of pork for the best flavor, and bright green banana leaves for beautiful color.

Yield Makes four 5-inch-square cakes; each cake serves 4 as a main course for breakfast or lunch, or 6 to 8 as part of an elaborate meal

Number Of Ingredients 11



Tet Sticky Rice Cakes image

Steps:

  • The night before, soak the rice and bamboo leaves. Put the rice in a large bowl and add water to cover by 2 inches. Place the bamboo leaves in a large roasting pan and add water to cover. Put a plate on top of the leaves to keep them submerged.
  • The next morning, drain the rice in a colander and then return it to the bowl. (It will have swollen to more than 8 cups.) Gradually mix in the salt, sprinkling it over the rice and using your hands to distribute it well.
  • Cut the pork into pieces the size of a deck of cards, about 3 inches long, 2 inches wide, and 1/2 inch thick. If you are using pork leg, each piece should have some fat and skin. Add the fish sauce, pepper, and pork to a bowl and mix well. Let marinate for 30 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, drain the bamboo leaves. Follow these directions, which will make sense when you assemble the cakes: Take each leaf and fold it lengthwise along the spine (dull side out) and then in half crosswise. Measuring from the center fold, use scissors to cut the leaf to measure 4 3/4 inches; unfolded, the trimmed leaf is 9 1/2 inches long. Use a ruler or one of the inner edges of the wooden mold (which is 5 inches long) as your guide. Rinse the trimmed leaves and set aside with the banana leaves.
  • To cook the pork, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the meat in a single layer and all the marinade. Cook, turning once, for about 2 minutes on each side, or until the pork is just cooked through. Transfer to a plate. Divide it into 4 equal portions and set aside.
  • Fill a 12-quart stockpot half full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cover to keep hot.
  • To make each cake, put a 12-by-18-inch piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil on your work surface, with a short side closest to you. Place the mold on the center of the foil. You will need 4 bamboo leaves to form the frame-corners and edges-for the cake. Working on one corner at a time, fold a bamboo leaf lengthwise (dull side out) along the spine and then in half crosswise. Crease the center fold. To form a 90-degree corner, simply unwrap the leaf and bring the lower center crease up to meet the spine. The leaf now looks like an upright corner of a paper box. Place the folded bamboo leaf into one of the corners of the mold, with the ends pointing toward (or touching) two of the walls. Repeat with the remaining 3 bamboo leaves, going in one direction around the mold and overlapping the leaves as you go. When you are done, the leaves will look like a picture frame. Push the leaves down into the corners to make sure they are snug and flush. Straighten any slouching leaf.
  • Next, line the mold with banana leaf. Place a piece of banana leaf so that one of its short sides is flush with the inner wall of the mold that is closest to you; the banana leaf should cover the bottom and extend above the mold on the far wall. Place a second piece of leaf in the reverse direction. The 2 pieces will overlap each other on the bottom. Equal lengths of leaf should extend above the mold on the far and near walls. Then arrange a third piece of leaf, with a long side closest to you, evenly across the bottom of the mold, so that short lengths of leaf extend above the right and left walls. All 4 walls of the mold are now lined. Use your fingers to tuck the leaves into the mold.
  • To add the edible ingredients, first scoop up 1 cup of the rice and pour it into the mold. Use your fingers to push some rice toward the outer edges. Add 1/2 cup lightly packed mung bean, pouring it into the center. Center a portion of pork on top. (If you are using pork leg, position the fat and skin in the center, so that at serving time, everyone gets an equal amount. You may need to tear or cut some of the fat from the meat to create an equal distribution.) Top with another 1/2 cup lightly packed mung bean. Finish with 1 cup rice. The mold will look very full. Push some of the rice to the sides and corners.
  • Cover the top of the cake by folding in the side flaps of banana leaf, then fold the side farthest from you down, and finally fold over the side nearest you. Press down firmly on the cake with your hand to distribute and compact the ingredients. Once the top is relatively flat, put one hand on top of the cake to hold it in place while you gently pull off the mold with the other hand. Temporarily keep the mold on your lower arm while you fold the top flap of foil down, and then fold the bottom flap up and over. This should keep the cake in place enough for you to remove the mold from your arm. Then, as if wrapping a gift , fold in the sides to form a foiled-covered square box. Pick up the cake and gently tap the sides against your work surface to make sure the elements are set. Put the cake aside. Repeat to make the remaining 3 cakes. Save or discard left over rice.
  • Tie each cake together with kitchen string. Since the rice expands during cooking, don't tie too tightly. Th e string should not make an impression in the foil. (See illustration, page 264.)
  • Return the stockpot of water to a boil. Add the cakes, stacking and/or standing them up. To keep the cakes from floating, place an empty saucepan on top to weight them down gently. Return the water to a boil and cook, uncovered, for 7 hours. To maintain the boil, keep a kettle of boiled water on the stove to replenish the water as needed; it is okay if the water occasionally simmers. As the cakes cook, they will expand and gain weight. Every 2 hours, rotate the cakes so they will cook evenly. When the cakes no longer float, about midway through the full cooking time, remove the saucepan and continue boiling.
  • Use tongs to transfer the cooked cakes to a baking sheet, placing the best-looking square side down. Put another baking sheet on top and center a 14- or 15-ounce food can on each cake to weight it down. (Eager people let the cakes cool for only 1 to 2 hours before unwrapping and eating.)
  • The next morning, remove the foil, wipe off stray bits of rice, and then wrap each cake in plastic wrap. For display purposes, you may tie colorful ribbon (red symbolizes good luck) around each cake. The cakes may be kept at room temperature for 3 days, beyond which they should be stored in the refrigerator, where they will last for a week. They may also be frozen for up to 3 months (see Note for information on how to refresh frozen cakes).
  • There are two ways to enjoy bánh chung: soft , which allows you to appreciate fully the pale green color and ethereal flavor of the banana leaf, or fried into a delicious crispy pancake. Regardless of which method you use, serve the cake with sugar for lightly dipping the pieces. It sounds odd but is quite nice.
  • To cut and serve a cake soft: Cut the cake into 8 equal triangular wedges (think of an asterisk). Because it is hard to cut through the sticky rice with a knife, Vietnamese cooks use a type of fibrous string. I substitute unflavored dental floss or linen kitchen string. (If the cake is firm from refrigeration, unwrap and cut with a knife. Reheat the pieces in a microwave oven until soft before serving.) To cut with floss or twine: Undo the plastic wrap, keeping it spread out underneath the cake. Remove and discard the bamboo leaves. Return the cake to the plastic wrap, open side up (as it was when you were assembling the cake). Peel off the top and side flaps of banana leaf, leaving them on the plastic wrap. Cut 4 lengths of floss or string each about 20 inches long and arrange them on the cake in the pattern of an 8-spoked asterisk: position 2 strands on the diagonals, 1 strand horizontally across the middle, and 1 strand vertically down the middle. One at a time, grab the ends of each strand and pull the strand down about 1/4 inch into the cake to secure it in place. Invert the cake onto a serving plate. (Use the plastic wrap to pick up the cake.) Peel off the plastic wrap and banana leaves. One at a time, grab each strand by its ends and pull it up through the cake toward the center, crossing in the middle and lifting it out of the cake. (You may have to pause midway to pull on other strands as you make the cuts.) When all the strands are removed, the cake will be cut into perfect wedges.
  • To fry and serve a cake: Nicely cut wedges are not necessary if you are frying the cake. Use a knife to quarter the cake and then cut each quarter into 1/2-inch-thick slices. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add half of the slices and fry, undisturbed, for about 6 minutes, or until the rice has softened. Use a spatula to press and mash the chunks to form a pancake and continue to fry for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the underside is crispy and golden. Flip the pancake with a quick and confident jerk of the skillet handle (or slide the pancake onto a plate and then invert it into the skillet). Increase the heat to medium-high and fry the second side for about 4 minutes, or until crispy and golden. Slide the pancake onto a plate, cut into wedges, and serve. Repeat with the remaining slices to make a second pancake.
  • The wooden mold for these cakes is not commercially produced because people typically make the molds themselves. If you are not good at woodworking, do as I did and ask someone for help. The mold should have a 5-inch-square opening and stand 1 1/2 inches high. (For my mold, I bought a 30-inch-long piece of 3/4-inch-thick unfinished oak from a spare wood bin at a lumberyard.) My friend Mike Crane cut the wood into 4 pieces, 2 pieces that were 5 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide and 2 pieces that were 6 1/2 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Although nails would have held the pieces together, he used screws, drilling 2 holes at the end of each of the longer pieces. When he screwed the pieces together, he added a little glue for extra security. To finish the mold, he lightly sanded the edges.
  • To refresh a thawed bánh chung, bring it to room temperature. Rewrap it in foil and tie it with cotton string as you originally did. Boil the cake in a large pot of water for 1 hour, adding water as needed to keep the cake submerged. Remove the cake and let cool for 1 to 2 hours before eating.

5 1/4 cups long-grain sticky rice
16 dried bamboo leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
1 1/4 pounds boneless pork leg with skin and fat or pork shoulder
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, preferably freshly ground
12 pieces fresh or thawed, frozen banana leaf, each 5 by 10 inches, trimmed, rinsed, and wiped dry
1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil
4 cups lightly packed Ground Steamed Mung Bean (page 322)
Sugar
Canola or other neutral oil if frying cakes

BANH TET

Banh Tet and banh chung (the square cake version) are available year long and for the Lunar New Year in Vietnam. It's a sticky rice cake with various fillings, some are sweet and some are savory. Mung beans, pork, and sticky rice are the core ingredients. Raffia string is usually used to tie the cakes but I've used kitchen twine. Also, traditionally these are more elaborately trussed than tied, like I did here to simplify. I wrapped the cakes in foil, that's Andrea Nguyen's move. Once the cakes are cooked you can wrap them in gold or red plastic ribbon for luck in the new year.

Provided by Elizabeth Mervosh

Time P1DT15m

Yield 12

Number Of Ingredients 11



Banh Tet image

Steps:

  • Place rice in a colander; rinse under cold water, stirring rice with your fingers, until water runs clear, about 2 minutes. Transfer rice to a large bowl or container; add water to cover by 2 inches. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.
  • While rice refrigerates, cut pork into four 1 1/4x5-inch strips. Place pork strips, fish sauce, shallot, sugar, pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a large zip-top plastic freezer bag. Seal bag, removing as much air as you can. Gently massage pork to distribute marinade. Refrigerate for 12 hours.
  • Place mung beans in a colander; rinse under cold water, stirring with your fingers, until water runs clear, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer mung beans to a small saucepan; add remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mung beans are creamy, no longer hold their shape, and begin to stick to bottom of pot, 16 to 18 minutes.
  • Scrape beans into the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Spread pureed mung beans onto a baking sheet. Chill until cold, about 45 minutes. You'll have about 2 cups mung bean puree.
  • While mung beans cool, gently rub banana leaves with a damp cloth to remove dirt. Using kitchen shears, cut fibrous strings off each banana leaf. You only need 12 banana leaves, but you cannot use torn leaves, and you'll want to set aside wider banana leaves for wrapping, so you'll need extras.
  • Remove pork from marinade; discard marinade. Moisten a work surface with a damp paper towel. Lay a 14-inch long piece of plastic wrap on moistened work surface, with the long edge facing you. Using a small offset spatula, spread 1/4 cup mung bean puree in center of plastic wrap to form a 6x4-inch rectangle. Center 1 pork strip on top of the mung bean rectangle. Spoon 1/4 cup mung bean puree over the pork, and using moistened hands, spread puree all over pork to mostly enclose. Lift bottom edge of plastic wrap to begin wrapping pork mixture; continue to roll into a log. Once roll is complete, hold the ends of the plastic wrap and roll pork mixture on counter towards you to form a tight cylinder, about 5 inches long; set pork roll aside. Repeat wrapping procedure with remaining 1 1/2 cups mung bean puree and remaining 3 pork strips.
  • Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in 2 1/4 teaspoons salt. You'll have about 9 cups drained rice.
  • Cut 36 (14-inch) lengths and 8 (28-inch) lengths of kitchen twine; set aside.
  • Stack 3 wide banana leaves (dull-side down with lines on the leaf running running parallel to edge of work surface) on top of each other to cover an 11-inch wide area. You will probably need to overlap some of the smaller leaves in order to form the desired shape. Using kitchen shears, cut banana leaf stack to form a 11x14-inch rectangle, with the 11-inch side facing you; discard trimmed leaves and restack leaves if needed. Spoon 3/4 cup of rice onto center of banana leaf stack and spread into a 6x4-inch rectangle.
  • Unwrap 1 of the pork rolls and center on top of rice rectangle. Spoon 3/4 cup rice over pork roll. Slowly wrap short edge of banana stack closest to you over pork roll, stopping to redistribute rice enclosing the pork, until it is snug and completely wrapped. Tie banana leaf cylinder in center with 1 (14-inch) piece of kitchen twine to secure. Working with 1 end of cylinder only, fold banana leaf ends over cylinder. Hold ends in place and then stand cylinder up on the folded end. Spoon 1/4 cup of rice into open end, and gently tap sides of banana cylinder and tap back and forth to settle rice. Seal open end of banana cylinder by tucking sides of banana leaves against rice mixture like you are wrapping a present and folding flaps down. Center 1 (28-inch) string over folded end and hold sides of string snuggly against cylinder. Hold folded end in place and flip cylinder. Open folded end.
  • Spoon 1/4 cup of rice into open end, and gently tap sides of banana cylinder and tap back and forth to settle rice. Seal open end of banana cylinder, tucks sides of banana leaves against rice mixture like you are wrapping a present, then fold flaps down. Bring edges of string up together and tie against folded flaps; don't tie too tightly. Center 1 (28-inch) string on 1 folded end perpendicular to first string, and hold sides of string snuggly against cylinder. With your other hand, hold bottom end in place and flip cylinder. Bring edges of string up together and tie against folded flaps; don't tie too tightly. Lay banana cylinder on work surface and cut off center string (the first string we tied) with kitchen shears; discard. Using 5 (14-inch) pieces of kitchen twine, tie banana cylinder working from center out at 1 1/2-inch intervals until you reach the ends. Wrap banana cylinder tightly in a 18-inch long piece of aluminum foil. Secure center and folded ends of foil with 3 (14-inch) pieces of kitchen twine. Repeat wrapping procedure with remaining banana leaves, rice, pork rolls, and kitchen twine.
  • Place cylinders in a large stockpot (you may need to stand cylinders on their ends.) Fill pot with water to 2 inches below the rim. Place a heat-proof lid on top of cylinders to keep submerged. Cover, and bring to boil over high heat. Uncover and continue to gently boil at medium heat, turning every 2 hours, until the internal temperature is at least 200 degrees F (92 degrees C), about 6 hours. Add additional boiling water as needed throughout cook time to keep water level 2 inches below the pot rim. Using tongs, transfer cooked banh tet to a baking sheet and let cool for at least 3 hours, or chill overnight. Remove and discard foil and banana leaves. Slice into rounds and serve. For clean slices, dip knife into warm water, and wipe clean often.

Nutrition Facts : Calories 424.1 calories, Carbohydrate 76.3 g, Cholesterol 13.7 mg, Fat 5.9 g, Fiber 5.4 g, Protein 14.6 g, SaturatedFat 1.8 g, Sodium 1015.4 mg, Sugar 1.5 g

5 cups uncooked glutinous white rice
1 tablespoon fine sea salt, divided
1 pound pork belly, skin removed
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 large shallot, minced
1 tablespoon white sugar
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup dried mung beans
3 cups water
2 (16-ounce packages) frozen banana leaves, thawed
kitchen twine

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