Handvo Savory Vegetable Semolina Bread Recipes

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HANDVO (SAVORY VEGETABLE SEMOLINA BREAD)

Handvo, a savory vegetable bread from the Indian state of Gujarat, is a near constant in the home of Anita Jaisinghani, the chef and owner of Pondicheri restaurant in Houston. Using hot water in the dough helps meld the flavors and hydrate the flours, as well as kickstart the leavening process. Ms. Jaisinghani makes many different versions - this carrot one is layered with the fragrance of toasted spices, the warmth of ginger and the freshness of herbs. Thanks to the pumpkin and sesame seeds that toast on top while it bakes, it also has an extra crunchy crust. The accompanying yogurt sauce is quickly - and deliciously - seasoned with aromatic spices tempered in oil. This is typically served as a snack, but is substantial enough to be a light meal when served with a salad.

Provided by Rachel Wharton

Categories     breads

Time 1h30m

Yield 4 to 6 servings

Number Of Ingredients 26



Handvo (Savory Vegetable Semolina Bread) image

Steps:

  • Arrange an oven rack in the lowest position and heat oven to 350 degrees.
  • Make the handvo: In a large (10-inch) cast-iron or nonstick oven-safe skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high. When the oil begins to shimmer but is not yet smoking, add the peanuts and fry, stirring continuously, until they begin to take on color and toast, a minute or two. Immediately add the cumin seeds, stirring just until they begin to pop and sizzle, about 10 seconds, then immediately stir in the curry leaves and turn off the heat. (Be careful as the curry leaves will spatter.) Scrape into a large bowl. Reserve the skillet, but don't clean it.
  • To the bowl, add the carrots, semolina, fenugreek, cilantro, yogurt, chickpea flour (if using), ginger, salt, baking powder, chile powder, turmeric and baking soda. Stir until well mixed. Run the hot water tap until the water is very hot (120 degrees) and measure out 1 cup. (Or heat 1 cup water to about 120 degrees in a small pot or kettle.) Add to the semolina-carrot mixture and stir until everything is evenly mixed. Immediately pour it into the skillet you used to toast the spices in the oil. Sprinkle the sesame seeds and the pumpkin seeds, if using, over the top.
  • Bake until the sides pull back a little from the edges and the center is set, 40 to 45 minutes. It is better to overbake rather than underbake to achieve a crisp crust. Cool in the pan on a rack for 10 to 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, make the yogurt sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, sugar and salt. Set this aside and, in a small skillet, heat the oil over medium-high to high. When the oil begins to shimmer but is not yet smoking, add the garlic. Stirring constantly, cook it just until the edges turn golden brown, about 1 minute, then immediately add the mustard seeds and chopped curry leaves, and remove the pan from the heat. Carefully pour the oil into the seasoned yogurt, leaving a few teaspoons of the spices and herbs in the pan, and fold the oil and yogurt together. Sprinkle the reserved spices and herbs and the chile powder over the top.
  • If the edges of the handvo are stuck to the skillet, use a spatula to release the sides. Flip the handvo out of the pan or, to serve it with the seeds on top, gently slide it onto a serving plate using a large spatula. Cut into slices or squares and serve warm or at room temperature with the yogurt sauce.

1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup roasted unsalted peanuts, chopped
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
30 to 40 fresh curry leaves (from 3 to 4 stems), chopped (see Tips)
2 medium carrots, coarsely grated (198 grams; 1 1/2 cups loosely packed)
1 cup/130 grams semolina flour
1 cup/64 grams chopped fresh fenugreek leaves and stems or 1/4 cup dried fenugreek (see Tips)
1/2 cup/29 grams chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 cup/113 grams plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature
2 tablespoons chickpea or lentil flour (optional)
1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon red chile powder
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
2 tablespoons raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1/2 cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
10 to 12 fresh curry leaves (from 1 stem), chopped
Pinch of red chile powder

SAMOSA PIE

Hot water pastry crusts - technically made with boiling water - are the secret behind classic savory British pies that bake up unfathomably tall, stand on their own power and don't crumble when sliced. Boiling water creates a silky, sturdy dough that is a breeze to roll and form, and also to flavor. This pie from the British author and television host Nadiya Hussain riffs on the lamb samosas she grew up eating with her Bangladeshi family. Here, Ms. Hussain's turmeric-infused crust turns a brilliant golden brown as the pie bakes.

Provided by Rachel Wharton

Categories     pies and tarts, main course

Time 2h30m

Yield 6 to 8 servings

Number Of Ingredients 17



Samosa Pie image

Steps:

  • Make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ginger, garlic, cumin and red-pepper flakes, and cook until fragrant, a minute or two. Add the lamb and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking into small pieces, until it is just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the potatoes, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and let everything steam, stirring once halfway through, until the potatoes are just soft, about 20 minutes.
  • Uncover, stir in the peas and cook until just heated through, a minute or two. Stir in the cornstarch slurry, then turn off the heat and stir in the cilantro. Season to taste with salt, and let cool completely before building the pie.
  • When the filling has cooled, arrange an oven rack in the lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees.
  • Make the pastry: Whisk the flour, salt and turmeric in a large heatproof mixing bowl. Create a small well in the center.
  • In a small pot, bring 2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon/165 grams water and the shortening to a boil over medium heat. As soon as the shortening has melted completely into the boiling water, pour the mixture into the well in the flour. Use a wooden spoon to quickly stir the hot water into the flour, making sure everything gets wet. As soon as it is cool enough to handle, knead the dough with your hands in the bowl or on a clean work surface until it comes together in a smooth ball.
  • Wrap a third of the dough in plastic wrap and set aside. Roll the remaining dough into an 11-inch circle (about 1/8-inch thick) between two large pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Remove one piece of wrap or paper and flip the pastry into an 8-inch springform pan, centering it and using your hands to gently press it into the bottom and against the sides. The dough should be supple and smooth enough that, if you tear it, you can easily patch any holes. Discard the wrap or paper. Add the filling and use the back of a spoon to press it in and level the surface. There should be a 1/2-inch rim of dough above the filling. Brush it with the beaten egg.
  • Roll the reserved dough into a 9-inch circle (about 1/8-inch thick) between two pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Remove one piece of wrap or paper and flip the pastry over the filling, centering it and pushing it down so that it fits snugly. The edge of the top crust will overlap the edge of the bottom crust. Press these two edges together gently against the side of the pan. Using a knife, trim the top of the combined edges to create an even border around the pan, then use your fingers to crimp that bit of dough back down into the pie, sealing the edges.
  • Cut a hole in the center of the pie to allow air to escape, brush the top with egg and bake until the top is deep golden brown and firm, 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. Let cool in the pan on a rack for at least 1 1/2 hours before unmolding and serving.

5 tablespoons olive oil
1 small white onion, finely chopped (1 heaping cup)
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons red-pepper flakes
1 pound ground lamb
1 pound red or gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup frozen peas
2 tablespoons cornstarch whisked into 1/4 cup cold water
3/4 cup loosely packed, finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 1/3 cups/325 grams all-purpose flour (see Tip)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/3 cup/65 grams vegetable shortening
1 large egg, beaten, for glazing the top

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