PESCE SPADA SULLA BRACE ALLA PANTESCA
Daughter-of-the-wind is her name in Arabic-Bent el-Rhia-the gorgeous island of Pantelleria sits seventy kilometers from Tunisia in the Egadian Archipelago. She is full of sea caves and strange, vaporous grottoes. She wears Neolithic ruins among her palms and oleander. And in the contrada, neighborhood, called Favarotta, we ate swordfish-thin steaks of it cut from the center of the just-caught fish, first rubbed with olive oil and then quickly roasted over a red-sparking grapevine fire. The fisherman/cook laid them over a cool tomato jam and we feasted. Too, we ate yellow-crumbed semolina bread roasted over the then quieter fire, and when its heat was nearly spent, we skewered figs-green ones and the first of the summer-onto grapevine twigs and held them near the fire until their juices were warmed and we ate them with the last sips of Pantelleria's luscious moscato.
Yield serves 6
Number Of Ingredients 12
Steps:
- Construct a marinade with 1/2 cup of the olive oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, pepper, lemon juice, and massage it into the fish on both sides. Allow the fish to rest for 1 hour while you prepare a wood fire and an onion/tomato marmalade.
- Over a medium flame, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan and soften the garlic, taking care not to let it color. Add the onions. Soften them for 15 minutes or so, adding 1 tablespoon of the moscato each time the pan seems dry-about 1/2 cup total. Add the tomatoes, salting them generously, and the remaining cup of moscato. Slowly cook the mixture, stirring it every few minutes until it reduces and thickens almost to a jam-about 1/2 hour. Drain the plumped raisins and rinse the capers, adding both to the finished marmalade. Stir very well and set the marmalade aside.
- When the embers of the fire are red/white-hot, char the swordfish steaks 45 seconds to 1 minute-30 seconds will be sufficient if your fire is hot enough-on each side, removing them to a plate onto which some of the marmalade has been spread. When all the steaks are grilled, spoon a bit more marmalade over them. The warm, charred fish forms a lush fusion with the jam.
PESCE SPADA
Steps:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- In a bowl whisk together the oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic and salt and pepper. In a shallow dish coat the fish steaks with the mixture and let marinate, covered and chilled, for 15 minutes. Arrange the fish in a foil lined baking pan and bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until fish is just cooked. In a bowl toss the tomatoes with the basil and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the fish to serving plates and top each with some of the tomato/basil salad. Sprinkle with lemon juice and garnish with lemon wedges.
BRACIOLINE DI PESCE SPADA ALLA MESSINESE
Steps:
- With a mezzaluna or a very sharp knife, finely mince 1 cup of the mint and parsley together with the garlic to a fine paste and transfer it to a large bowl. Lightly pan-roast the pine nuts. Add the olives, raisins, and any residual liquid and the pine nuts to the bowl along with the capers, pecorino, bread crumbs, and the egg. Generously grind on the pepper. Work the elements to a well-amalgamated paste. The pecorino and capers should be salty enough to flavor the paste, but after tasting it, add a bit more if you wish.
- Lay the bracioline on a work surface and pound them lightly but firmly with a mallet, thinning the flesh a bit. Spread each steak with a good tablespoon of the paste, roll it into a fat little sausage shape, and secure the braciolina with a toothpick. Over a lively flame, heat the oil in a large sauté pan and very quickly cook the bracioline, sautéing them well but taking only a minute or so to do it so as not to overcook the fish. Remove the bracioline to a holding plate.
- When all are cooked, discard any remaining oil and rinse the pan with the 2/3 cup of Malvasia, scraping and stirring and permitting the wine to reduce for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the sauce over the bracioline and present them, strewn with 1/2 cup mint leaves, warm or at room temperature.
- Sacrificing the beauty of the sauce, one could skewer the bracioline onto well-soaked grapevine twigs, olive wood twigs, thick branches of rosemary, or metal skewers, alternating them with bay leaves and roasting them over a very hot wood fire for a minute or two on each side, basting them with olive oil. They'll need some accessory-a spoonful of warm tomato vinaigrette would do nicely.
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